Farewell to The Netherlands, Boycotting Belgium and Bonjour to France!

Perhaps I should begin by explaining the “Boycotting Belgium” part of the title.

First and foremost, I'd like to make it clear that I have absolutely nothing whatsoever against the Belgian people. My beef is with their government.

The Belgian government has made it abundantly clear that British yachtsmen are not welcome in Belgium.

Oh they haven’t made a public statement to that effect. Their approach has been rather more subtle – well, as subtle as a sledgehammer!

What they've done is fine several British yachts visiting Belgium's ports the princely sum of 500 euros each.

Their crime? To have diesel in their tanks that has been legally purchased in the UK and on which all applicable taxes have been paid.

If you’re thinking that doesn’t sound that serious – or even illegal – the problem is that the fuel in question contained red dye. All fuel available in British marinas contains it. Therefore 99% of British registered boats will have diesel fuel with red dye in their tanks.

The Belgian government will argue that some EU directive or other states that the use of diesel fuel with a red dye in it should be restricted to certain categories of user - typically those who pay a reduced amount of tax on their fuel, such as fishermen and farmers.

And they may be right. 

Arguably the British government are in breach of this directive by allowing a situation to continue where the only fuel available to British boating types contains a red dye.

However, no other country in the EU has, to my knowledge, taken the Belgian government’s draconian approach to the issue. What kind of government slaps substantial fines on visitors without any prior warning of their intentions?

The effect of this is, I imagine, that British sailors and motor boaters are staying away from Belgium in droves. I bet the marinas and other businesses that rely on tourism are delighted with their government's actions!

Whilst Cyclone probably has no evidence of red dye remaining in her tank (it's designed to hang around for a long time, so we can't be absolutely sure) and whilst the Belgian government has now stated that it won't fine any more British vessels pending the outcome of a meeting in September (would you trust them?!), I won’t now visit Belgium on principle.

Which is a shame as we have fond memories of the places we’ve visited previously in Cyclone - Breskens, Zeebrugge, Bruges, Oostende, Blankenberg and Nieuwpoort. Ho hum…

Back to the plot…

Last time I updated the blog we were in Sint-Annaland. This is a pleasant town, but has little to offer the tourist. When the “Points of Interest” noted on the walking tour include the local cemetery it's clear the tourist board are clutching at straws, bless 'em!

Sint-Annaland Marina

Sint-Annaland's obligatory pretty old building...

... and windmill

So after a couple of nights waiting out the worst of the wind and rain, we got going again – this time to Middelburg, which is just north of Vlissingen (or Flushing as the British refer to it).

The weather wasn't perfect, with heavy showers...

... but also sunny spells!

Middelburg is another attractive and historic Dutch town - a bit like Gouda but without the cheese! Unfortunately the tourist information centre let us down as they'd run out of walking tours in English so, armed with a map and little other information, we just went for a stroll.

Middelburg's waiting pontoons on the left and far right (for bridges into the harbours)

Middelburg's Binnenhaven (where Cyclone wasn't)...

... and Dokhaven (where Cyclone was!)

Wavy house - reminds us of the Star Trek Transporter!

Canal side street - KinderDijk

Looking back over the Binnenhaven

Church organ - We arrived in time to hear it being played. Dad (and Edward) would have loved it

Alien. Big alien!

There's a houseboat under that lot!

Big old building (I told you we didn't have much information!)

Middelburg street with Lange Jan in the distance

Tree lined canal

Apparently they decapitate ugly people and stick their heads on stakes

The same goes for those with silly hats!

Walk of Fame - That's Boris Becker and Sting...

... Sarah Palin and S. Stallone...

... D. Beckham and Tine Turner. An eclectic mix!

Fish market? Dating from many, many years ago

Another old building in Middelburg

I know this one! The Zeeland Museum

Now, as you may have noticed, when we see a tower we climb it. This time we paid an exorbitant 4 euros each (Dordrecht's tower was just 1 euro each) to climb the Lange Jan - and very disappointed we were too.

Like the tourist information centre, the kiosk had no information available in English (Dordrecht did) but, worst of all, when we got to the top we couldn't go outside! Instead we had to look through grubby leaded-light windows.

If you're going to Middelburg, our advice is not to bother with the Lange Jan!

Anyway, these were the best of the photos we took (the others were hazy as a result of the dirty windows...):

Overlooking Middelburg from the Lange Jan

The Zeeland Museum from above

The top of the Lange Jan itself. Rubbish, Boo!!

Middelburg's town hall

Scary tree!

We stayed for a couple of nights in Middelburg whilst waiting for a favourable wind to whisk us past Belgium (boo!!) and on to France (hurrah!!). With a suitable forecast, we set off for Dunkerque on Monday 21st August.

There are 5 bridges between Middelburg and Vlissingen. To minimise disruption to traffic, yachts travel in convoy (sound familiar?) every 2 hours. We took the 1237 convoy which was scheduled to arrive in Vlissingen at 1330 - a couple of hours before the tide would turn towards France. Then it was just the lock to negotiate and we were once more in the open sea.

Vlissingen lock with our convoy of boats

Back at sea! That's Vlissingen, I think. Farewell Netherlands!

As stated above, there are some nice places to visit in Belgium, but I think it's fair to say that the Belgian seaside architecture is designed to admire the view from rather than the view of!

Somewhere on the Belgian coast. Could be anywhere, It's all the same

After giving each of the Belgian harbours a cheery wave, we arrived in Dunkerque at 2320. That's about 11 hours berth to berth. Not bad for 5 bridges, a lock and 57 miles. Not bad at all!

Bonjour France! Dunkerque marina. 

We'd hoped for a bit of a lie-in the following day but it wasn't to be. Being a late arrival, we'd been directed to the disabled berth (well done to Dunkerque for having such a thing - equipped, we think, with a hoist for lifting people on and off their boats). Unfortunately this was adjacent to the refuelling berth and, being nearest to the exit ramp, there was significant passing pedestrian traffic too!

Not wishing to depart until early afternoon (tides and all that!) we made use of our morning by seeking out a supermarche for wine and taking showers.

Sculpture park en route to the supermarche. They're anchors, you know

Then it was off once more - this time to Boulogne-Sur-Mer.

Bye bye Dunkerque

A photo I know my sister will enjoy. Look at all that pollution Ju...

... Clouds of it!!

We arrived at Boulogne-Sur-Mer at 2040 on Tuesday 22nd and that's where we are now. We've visited before so will likely pass our time here with visits to the supermarche and reading books rather than sight-seeing.

The entrance to Boulogne-Sur-Mer's inner harbour

Next stop Eastbourne (that's England!!) which is just 54 miles away. Maybe we'll get there as early as Friday but, as ever, that depends on the weather.

Thanks for reading.